On the plane ride over I decided where I would be dining that evening. I used to eat at the place at least 3 times a month back when I lived in Madrid. It is possibly one of the best value restaurants I have ever visited and also one of the most surreal dining experiences you can have. It begins with the walk to the restaurant. From Sol you go up the busy Calle Montera. Whether you live in Madrid or are just visiting, you will undoubtedly find yourself walking up this street to the Gran Via many times. As you stroll up the gradual incline you will soon realize the block is lined with prostitutes. Not just at 2am, but in middle of the day, in the very center of Madrid. It seems strange but do not be put off by this. The locals and their children walk right by the scantily clad women during the day without a glance. It’s a little shocking at first but you get used to it. You kind of have to, especially when your restaurant is just around the corner. Maybe that is part of the allure of Madrid, a virtual feast for the senses- witnessing death at the Plaza de Toros, seeing sex for sale in broad daylight and consuming food and wine in copious amounts at every turn. I'm back in Madrid.
Welcome to Calle Montera.
And welcome to La Gloria de Montera.
My roomate brought me here for the first time back in 2002. Having taken the aforementioned stroll I was a little skeptical, (who wouldn't be), but three courses and a shared bottle of wine later I was instantly hooked. To put it simply, the quality of food is unbeatable at their prices especially in city center Madrid. The dining room will make you struggle with reality as you gaze from the inexpensive prices on the menu to the elegant surroundings. And it is always packed, always. They don't take reservations. If there isn’t a table ready then go and have a glass of wine on calle Montera, they will call you when one opens up and the wait is never long. The prices will amaze you- steak for 7.50(euro), confit of duck for 8, nothing over 10. When the food comes you will be more amazed. At those prices you might expect an alarmingly low quality but all of the dishes are first class and the portions are big.
So how can they afford to serve such great food at such prices? Well they have mastered, and I mean mastered the art of turnover. You go in, sit down, eat, drink, and get out. If you want to go and spend 2 hours over dinner socializing with your friends then don’t go to Gloria de Montera. Your waiter will distribute the menus without saying hello and return to take your order before you get off the appetizer page. If you are not ready yet he will be visibly agitated- so prepare yourself for his return visit in precisely one minute. If the waitstaff makes eye contact with you consider yourself lucky. In fact you will probably get more eye contact from the prostitutes on the walk to the restaurant than you will from any of the waitstaff during your meal. The staff race around like tuned robots, rushing to serve food and barrage the kitchen with orders at a frantic pace. They don’t have time to be friendly or the restaurant would fail. At these prices they have to pump out the food. And they pump it out. The service is fast and efficient, just don't expect the obligatory "Is everything ok?" after they have dropped your first course. But they work hard, get the food to your table fast and are right there when you are looking for the bill. You don't need someone smiling at you when you are eating this good at these prices.
8 years away from Madrid and the restaurant hasn't changed a bit. The menu is virtually a copy of when I left in 2003, proof that when something is working perfectly don‘t mess with it. Ok, so they don’t have the friendliest waitstaff. But the place was, as always, packed with diners who were willing to forego the niceties of warm service. At the end of the day who really cares if your waiter smiles if you are eating like a king and paying street food prices.
Our meal:
2 glasses of white wine
1 Salmon Carpaccio
1 Baby Octopus and Potato
1 Bottle of Rioja
1 Fillet of Beef
1 Confit of Duck
1 Cafe con Leche
Total Bill: 48 Euro!
Stomach full, wallet still full.
OMG, those places are really expensive for the spanish ppl! There are many restaurants where u can eat very good here for less than 15 € (or even 10) per person. Food in the centre is very expensive but if u can afford it, good for u. Anyway I advise u that there are better and cheaper places, u just need to look for them (they are not going to be in the centre!)
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