El Mercado de San Miguel- Night 2, Something New

Whenever you go back to visit a place you haven't been in a while there is always something new and different.  Things get torn down.  Shops close.  New shops open.   Buildings get erected out of nowhere.   The only hope is that this new thing is something cool and unique.  There's nothing worse when you return to a place and find that your favorite deli or restaurant was replaced by a 7/11 or Starbucks. (The horror)

On the second day in Madrid I got to talking to the receptionist in the hotel.  After a brief conversation I mentioned I lived here years ago and of course she said that many things have changed in the last 8 years.  One thing she recommended I check out was El Mercado de San Miguel.  It opened 2 years ago and she described it as basically a big food area where you can sample different dishes and drink various wines from all over Spain.  It was also open to 12am on weekdays and 2am on weekends.  "It's not cheap but very good"' was her last comment before I set off for the day.

Now in my head I had already planned where we would eat for the four nights.   The market wasn't one of them so I put it on the back burner. But after a few hours of strolling the city center I was leaving the Plaza Mayor on the west side and a block away was a huge new structure I had never seen before.  It's a wrought iron frame with windows all around the rectangular complex.  Without trying we had stumbled upon el Mercado de San Miguel.  "Let's just have a look"- aren't those just famous words.   My 4 night plan was suddenly altered.  The minute I got inside I was surrounded by food and smells from every direction. I knew I had no chance of restraint.

Let's start with some oysters washed down with a Galician Albarino.

Now maybe some Pulpo Gallego.

I think i'll have some Angulas with shrimp.

Now some meat as we switch to Rioja.  Jamon anyone?

There's also a cheese stall, an olive stall, a caviar stall, bocadillos- just about every Spanish food is in here. None of the plates are expensive but go in hungry and you won't be able to stop yourself and all the samplings will add up in the end.

The wine bar is impressive.  3 euro for a glass of Crianza, 4 euro for a Reserva.  You can try glasses from every region in Spain. If you really want to go for it you can try a Vega Sicilia for 30 euro a glass.

And the place is fun.  There are few seats, mostly high tables that you stand around and eat.  Finish one plate and wander off to another stall and bring back something new.  It's loud but not too loud.  It's just full of atmosphere in that great Spanish way.  Maybe that is the best thing about it.  The food isn't the best in Madrid but what it lacks in quality is more than made up for by just being in there.  It's a place to eat, drink and talk about eating and drinking- what can be better?

Here's a little video I took.  It's not the best but you get the sounds and visuals of the place.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8s2UzDCygRs

If you're in Madrid you must check this place out.

La Gloria de Montera- My Old Favorite

Ah...Madrid, or Madreeth as the Madrileños pronounce it.  There's nothing like walking around the center of Madrid and its' labryinth of side streets.  New, hip and trendy areas pop up throughout the city but Sol will always be the pulsating heart of the city- where tourists and locals converge to stroll the Plaza Mayor, gorge on Spanish cuisine and take in the beauty that is Madrid at night. 

On the plane ride over I decided where I would be dining that evening.  I used to eat at the place at least 3 times a month back when I lived in Madrid.  It is possibly one of the best value restaurants I have ever visited and also one of the most surreal dining experiences you can have.  It begins with the walk to the restaurant.  From Sol you go up the busy Calle Montera.  Whether you live in Madrid or are just visiting, you will undoubtedly find yourself walking up this street to the Gran Via many times.  As you stroll up the gradual incline you will soon realize the block is lined with prostitutes.  Not just at 2am, but in middle of the day, in the very center of Madrid.  It seems strange but do not be put off by this. The locals and their children walk right by the scantily clad women during the day without a glance.  It’s a little shocking at first but you get used to it.  You kind of have to, especially when your restaurant is just around the corner.  Maybe that is part of the allure of Madrid, a virtual feast for the senses- witnessing death at the Plaza de Toros, seeing sex for sale in broad daylight and consuming food and wine in copious amounts at every turn.  I'm back in Madrid. 

Welcome to Calle Montera.

And welcome to La Gloria de Montera.
 

  

My roomate brought me here for the first time back in 2002.  Having taken the aforementioned stroll I was a little skeptical, (who wouldn't be), but three courses and a shared bottle of wine later I was instantly hooked.  To put it simply, the quality of food is unbeatable at their prices especially in city center Madrid.  The dining room will make you struggle with reality as you gaze from the inexpensive prices on the menu to the elegant surroundings.  And it is always packed, always. They don't take reservations. If there isn’t a table ready then go and have a glass of wine on calle Montera, they will call you when one opens up and the wait is never long.  The prices will amaze you- steak for 7.50(euro), confit of duck for 8, nothing over 10. When the food comes you will be more amazed. At those prices you might expect an alarmingly low quality but all of the dishes are first class and the portions are big.

So how can they afford to serve such great food at such prices?  Well they have mastered, and I mean mastered the art of turnover. You go in, sit down, eat, drink, and get out.  If you want to go and spend 2 hours over dinner socializing with your friends then don’t go to Gloria de Montera. Your waiter will distribute the menus without saying hello and return to take your order before you get off the appetizer page. If you are not ready yet he will be visibly agitated- so prepare yourself  for his return visit in precisely one minute. If the waitstaff makes eye contact with you consider yourself lucky.  In fact you will probably get more eye contact from the prostitutes on the walk to the restaurant than you will from any of the waitstaff during your meal. The staff  race around like tuned robots, rushing to serve food and barrage the kitchen with orders at a frantic pace. They don’t have time to be friendly or the restaurant would fail. At these prices they have to pump out the food.  And they pump it out. The service is fast and efficient, just don't expect the obligatory "Is everything ok?" after they have dropped your first course.   But they work hard, get the food to your table fast and are right there when you are looking for the bill. You don't need someone smiling at you  when you are eating this good at these prices.

                                                                (Salmon Carpaccio)

8 years away from Madrid and the restaurant hasn't changed a bit.  The menu is virtually a copy of when I left in 2003, proof that when something is working perfectly don‘t mess with it.  Ok, so they don’t have the friendliest waitstaff.  But the place was, as always, packed with diners who were willing to forego the niceties of warm service.  At the end of the day who really cares if your waiter smiles if you are eating like a king and paying street food prices.

Our meal:

2 glasses of white wine
1 Salmon Carpaccio
1 Baby Octopus and Potato

1 Bottle of Rioja
1 Fillet of Beef
1 Confit of Duck

1 Cafe con Leche

Total Bill: 48 Euro!
Stomach full, wallet still full.